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“По тесни линии: 125 км от България”: Предисторията

От дълго време мечтаех да разкажа за теснолинейката. Някак винаги ми е напомняла за детството. Когато бях в гимназията много често пътувах с влак до най-близкия по-голям град до Калофер – Пловдив. По-късно и като студентка до София. 

Влакът е истинска магия. Обичах да се взирам през прозореца в красивите подбалкански гледки. Линията така се виеше – Балканът ту се приближаваше, ту ставаше по-далечен. Може би и затова пътуването с влак ми е толкова скъпо – поривът да заминеш, за да намериш себе си и да достигнеш някой нов връх, както и милият спомен от махащите ръце на родителите, които с умиление и надежди за успех и щастие ме изпращат.

Историята на теснолинейката е разказвана много пъти от различни медии. През годините няколко пъти тя е била пред закриване, но доброволческите организации и медиите успяваха да я спасят. Търсех нов ъгъл, чрез който да покажа красотата и важността й. Така се появи идеята да използвам теснолинейката като метафора за нашата държава. Най-добрият начин да разкажа това беше през очите на тези, които живеят в нея и на тези, които успяват да я видят отвън. Благодарение на фотожурналиста Стоян Ненов, на който изкключително много се възхищавам и уважавам, се запознах с Джоди Хилтън. Джоди е американка, фоторепортер. От години живее в България. Интересува се от миналото на страната ни и на живота на малцинствата и обезлюдените райони. Женена е за българин. Няколко пъти е посещавала теснолинейката, за да реализира собствени проекти. Имало е защо дълго време да отлагам материала. Джоди беше перфектният избор за този разказ, а аз успях да я убедя да се включи броени дни преди да се завърне в Съединените Американски щати. Снимахме филмчето седмица преди 100-годишнината от първата копка на теснолинейката (06.06.2021 г.)  и малко след откриването на най-новата спирка “Стоян Митов”, която в този момент се нуждаеше от гласност в медиите, за да бъде популяризирана.

Ден 1 - село Кандово

Обиколихме всички локации, за които през следващите два дни бяхме планирали снимки. Село Кандово беше първата ни спирка. Отправихме се натам, за да се срещнем с младия помощник-машинист на влак “Родопи” – Салих Мехмед. Когато бил дете, използвал теснолинейката, за да ходи на училище. Тогава се влюбил в магичното влакче и започнал да мечтае да го управлява. Желанието му се изпълнило. След като завършва образованието си в София става помощник-машинист. Теснолинейката го връща в родното му село.

Ако посетите Кандово, ще се зачудите какво прави един млад човек там, въпреки, че останах изненадана колко много деца има там. Селото е пълно с малки дървени къщички, които се използват за подслон на животни и храната за тях. Улучихме сезон, в който местните тъкмо прибираха сеното. Прашните улички бяха покрити със златистите сламки. В селото повечето хора са мюсюлмани. Няколко пъти през деня могат да бъдат чути песнопенията от джамията. Жените носят шарени шалвари и забрадки. Прозорчетата на всички къщи са с дантелени перденца. Имаше много деца, които безгрижно подвикваха едно на друго, докато се изпреварваха с колелата си. Селцето ми приличаше на остров сред море от планини. Зелените вълни го обграждаха, а слънцето точеше своите дълги прозявки и до най-сгушеното покривче. Салих ни разведе наоколо и ни обясни как изглежда кабината на машиниста в теснолинейката, за да направим план как ще снимаме. Останах с много приятни впечатления от него. Докато го снимахме там, той събра един простор с дрехи; нахрани кученцето си, поздрави всяка баба по пътя и не спираше да се усмихва. Дадох си сметка колко различни мечти имат хората и как светът за всеки един човек има различни размери. Салих беше умно момче, знаеше какво има отвъд селото, но някак неговият свят, целият се беше събрал в Кандово и той не изпитваше нужда от нищо друго. Беше започнал ремонт на родната му къща. Мислеше си явно вече за семейство. Колкото и неустоим да е големият град, тези малки селца, малки градчета в България имат нужда от младите си наследници. Имат нужда най-вече от обичта им. Защо това е, което ще ги запази и ще дава повод на младите винаги да се връщат.

Ден 2 - В дома на баба Сабие в с. Абланица

Къщата й беше двуетажна. Имаше голям двор. Нямаше я, когато за първи път отидохем да я потърсим. Беше с кравите някъде из пущинаците. Посрещна ни снаха й. Всеки път оставам изненадана от гостоприемството на хората. От друга страна си давах сметка колко голямо доверие имат на медията. Тя веднага изтича до избата за компот от горски плодове. Баба Сабие се беше погрижила и за зимнината. Докато води кравите на паша, пълни джобовете си с диви малини и капини. Нямаше по-вкусен домашен сок от компота, който ни предложи. Естествено охладен от избата.  

Към 19:30ч. баба Сабие се прибра. Прегърна ни на двора, сякаш се познавахме от години. Не искаше много да се снима. Въпреки, че с много труд беше създала всичко наоколо, което виждахме, се притесняваше, че не е достатъчно представително. Запозна ни със синовете й. Мили, млади хора създали вече своите семейства. Всъшност Сабие не беше толкова възрастна – на 65 г. Дългите години труд бяха дали своето отражение върху лицето й. Всеки ден тя става в 5, за да издои кравите. Пълни шишетата с мляко, около 20 шишета по 1, 5 и 2 литра. Носи ги на гръб в две зелени платнени торби. Представях си колко ли са ожулени раменете й от грубия плат на дръжките. Интересно беше облеклото й. И през най-топлите часове от деня, тя беше облечена с дълги шалвари, пъстра манта и ярко оранжев елек, който сама си беше изплела. Харесваше й този цвят, светещ като слънцето.  Влакът беше спасение за нея. Благодарение на теснолинейката тя все още можеше да работи. Ако я няма теснолинейката, тя ще трябва да пътува с автобус, билетчетата за отиване и връщане биха й стрували около 4 бутилки с мляко.Когато разнасяше тези шишета по хорските къщи във Велинград ми направи впечатление малкото прозрачно пликче, в което събираше стотинките за млякото. Нямаше портмоне. Последният ми силен спомен от нея е замисленият й поглед, който се реееше някъде отвърд прозореца на теснолинейката. Какво ли си мислеше….

Ден 3 - тъкачницата за килими в гр. Костандово

Зададохме правилно адреса в навигацията, а когато пристигнахме, реших, че сме на грешното място. Малка желязна вратичка ни отведе до ниска и стара правоъгълна сграда. Приличаше повече на изоставен хамбар отколкото на тъкачница, в която се създават килими за британското кралско семейство. Още два пъти се изненадох, когато влезнахме вътре. Първата зала беше с високи до тавана дървени станов. Около 30-тина жени премятаха цветната вълна през пръстите си. Беше много красиво. Поопитах за собствениците. Кааха ми, че през две врати ще ги открия. Там ме чакаше втората изненада. Широк салон с бетонен под и стари прозорци.  На пода килим като картина. Една стара печка, а до нея количка с дърва. Дъвена маса с 3 стола и въжен простор в дъното, от който излизаше пара и падаха горещи капки вода. Нино Парпулов, собственикът беше седнал на масата, кръстосал крака, с едното си рамо подпрял се върху масата, послана с вестник. Пушеше. Разказа ми историята на тъкачницата и неговия път до нея. Усетих такава богата палитра от емоции, докато общувах с него. Беше му и тъжно, но се и гордееше. Имаше и по малко яд и смирение. Килимите в Костандово се правят по много стара технология. Преждите се оцветяват в много гореща вода, след това съхнат и ръчно се втъкват в картина. По много особен назин тази технология беше преплетена с нашия модерен свят. Синът на Нино се занимава с дизайн и компютърна обработка. Той проектира дизайна на килима на компютър – квадрат по квадрат, за да може жените след това да прерисуват с прежди. В тъкачницата работеха и млади, и стари. Някои от 4, други от 40 години. Някои от тях идваха с теснолинейката от съседни села, за да работят. По стените видях в рамки снимки на Нино с принц Чарлз и съпругата му Камила от срещата им в Лондон, както и кадри от филма “Трансмормърс 3”, на които се вижда в една от сцените как Антъни Хопкинс стъпва по един от килимите на Нино, намиращ се в британска резиденция. Дъщерята на Нино пък се грижеше за маркетинга и бизнес модела, по който да работи тъкачницата. Нино беше щастливец – децата му обичаха това място и щяха да се погрижат и след него то да има бъдеще. А това е добре и за Костандово, където днес тъкачницата е единственото място, което осигурява работни места.

Ден 4: Среща с Кристиан Ваклинов и Новооткритата спирка “Стоян Митов”.

До тази спирка се стига само по тесните линии. Около нея няма абсолютно нищо. Някогашният кантон, превърнат днес в спирка се намира буквално в нищото. Когато пристигнахме там се оказа, че има най-малко 2 часа до следващия влак и то в обратна посока. И 4 заса, ако искаш да продължиш напред. На пръв поглед човек би си казал какво ще правя толкова часове в нищото. После, обаче като се огледа, разбира, че няма да му стигнат.

Над спирката по сръмна пътека може да се стигне до място, от което да се види как теснолинейката се изкачва няколко нива и се движи под формата на осмица.Наистина много красива гледка. Осморката, която образуваше сякаш знак за безкрайност из между боровите гори. Чуваха се гласовете на птиците, жуженето на пчели, свиренето на щурците. Ухаеше на билки и горски цветя. Ставаше за пикник, за снимки, за някоя горска дрямка, да вдъхновенеи човек да ппише или просто да помълчи и да помечтае, за разходка. Много възможности. Точно това беше и идеята на Кристиан. Тази спирка да развие възмжността за еко-туризъм в района.  Надявах се след репортажа някой да помогне на сдруженеито му, защото те събираха средстава да ремонтират кантона. Да сложат пейки за отрих и табели за местата,  до които човек може да се разходи наоколо. За Кристиан знаех много от множеството репортажи, които вечех бяха правени през годините за теснолинейката. За него това високопланинско влакче е причината и смисъла да остане да се развива в България. Доволен и благодарен е днес. Не съжалява за решението си. Мисли как да го надгражда. Давах си сметка за мотивацията, която трябва да има човек, за да се занимава с доброволчески инициативи.

115 Comments

  • נערות ליווי פרטיות

    The next time I read a blog, Hopefully it doesnt disappoint me just as much as this one. I mean, Yes, it was my choice to read, but I really believed youd have something interesting to talk about. All I hear is a bunch of moaning about something that you can fix if you werent too busy seeking attention.

  • שירותי נערות ליווי בתל אביב

    השירות בדרך כלל אינו זול, במיוחד ביחס לדירות דיסקרטיות, אבל המסאג’ שתקבלו מנערת ליווי הוא פי כמה וכמה ב-99%
    מזה שתקבלו בעיסוי אירוטי בכל דירה דיסקרטית באשר היא.
    אנחנו ניצור לכם ע”י העורכי דין והנוטריונים שלנו הסכם ממון המותאם לכם בדיוק על פי רצונכם ובקשתכם. הסכם ממון המותאם בדיוק לצרכים ולרצונות שלכם לפי החוקים במדינת ישראל. בית תוכנה המתמחה בפיתוח אפליקציות , בניית אתרים , קידום אתרים , אפליקציות סטרימינג ומערכות WEB בהתאמה אישית והכל בהתאם לצרכים שלך. עבודות נגרות בהתאמה אישית. מטבחי זהב מתמחים במתן פתרונות נגרות מקצועיים ללקוחות פרטיים ועסקיים. החברה שלנו נוסדה בשנת 1988 כחברה שנותנת דגש לשרות ומציאת פתרונות למגזר העסקי והמוסדי. עיסוי בירושלים זה שם דגש על פרטיות הלקוח ונועד למעשה עבור אותם אנשים שאינם יכולים להגיע אל המכון. הגעתם בדיוק אל המקום הנכון. חלק ניכר מהמים של ארץ ישראל הינם מים קשים. דיכאון, חרדה והפרעת קשב וריכוז, הן רק חלק מההפרעות שבהן מטפל המרכז.

  • נערות ליווי בתל אביב

    נקודות הלחיצה עליהן לוחץ המעסה הם בעלי רגישות ועל פי התאילנדים מדובר בנקודות אנרגיה שממלאות
    את הגוף בחום. זוהי עובדה ידועה
    ולכן, זוגות באים לקבל טיפול של
    עיסוי מפנק בבאר שבע , או בכל אזור אחר בארץ תוכלו לבחור את המעסה על
    פי האזור שבו אתם גרים. זוהי עובדה ידועה ולכן, זוגות באים לקבל טיפול של עיסוי מפנק ברחובות
    , או בכל אזור אחר בארץ תוכלו
    לבחור את המעסה על פי האזור שבו אתם
    גרים. מדובר על העיסוי הקלאסי והנחשק ביותר על ידי קהל הישראלים.
    העיסוי הצרפתי מאוד נעים למטופל
    . הגעתם למקום הנכון רק אצלינו עיסוי אירוטי בהרצליה הכי טובות בישראל הפצצה של רעננה ישראלית סקסית ואיכותית לעיסוי
    בביתה ברעננה באיכות גבוה מאוד. למבוגרים הספיק לחפש
    טובות מהפרטנריות שלהם. כך שגם מי שנמצא בחיפוש אחר אטרקציות למבוגרים בלבד כמו נערות ליווי בתל אביב והמרכז,
    יכול למצוא את מה שהוא מחפש בצורה פשוטה, מהירה ויעילה.
    גברים רבים מגיעים אל הדירות לבילוי עם נערות ליווי או עם המאהבת.
    בשנים האחרונות, צמחה תופעת נערות ליווי בבאר שבע.

  • נערות ליווי בתל אביב

    חוסר יכולת של האם (פיזית או נפשית) או המשפחה לגדל את הילוד.

    הסיבות לפנייה לפסיכותרפיה הן מגוונות, ביניהן
    לחץ חמור וארוך טווח, סימפטומים של
    חולי גופני ללא סיבה רפואית (שינויים בהרגלי השינה או בתיאבון,
    למשל), אנרגיות נמוכות, עצבנות מתמשכת, אובדן עניין בהנאות החיים,
    חוסר תקווה שאינו מרפה או אבחנה
    של איש מקצוע לפיה המטופל סובל מדיכאון, הפרעה דו-קוטבית, הפרעת דחק פוסט-טראומטית או כל הפרעה נפשית אחרת שמביאה להפניה לטיפול פסיכולוגי מקצועי.

    התייעצות עם אנשי מקצוע: אם יש
    יצא לכם להסתייע בעבר באנשי מקצוע
    מתחומים מקבילים באזור, כמו למשל רפלקסולוגים,
    מעסים רפואיים ומטפלים אלטרנטיביים בשיטות שונות, תוכלו בהחלט
    לשאול אותם לגבי עיסוי ארוטי בהוד השרון ואם הם אכן מכירים מקום כזה,
    סביר להניח שזה יהיה מקום מקצועי שייתן לכם שירות טוב.

    לבלות לילה עם הבחורה הזאת הוא אושר שמימי,
    קסם ותאווה שמעולם לא חוויתם בעבר.

    אך כאשר יוצאים לבלות לא תמיד פוגשים בחורה שתזרום אתכם ולא תמיד יש בחורות אשר מוצאות חן בעיניכם.
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