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Селото, до което се стига само, ако вървиш 2 ч. пеш

Исмет приготвя най-вкусното турско кафе. Носят му го роднините от Турция. 

Пали старо газово котлонче и реди порцеланов сервиз върху голям, кръгъл и метален поднос. Кафената вода кипва 3 пъти, а ароматен дим изпълва стаята. 

Така помня една от срещите ни в дома му в село Ненково. Докато разказваше за живота в почти обезлюденото родопско село, за което по-късно направихме и репортаж, ми спомена за село Дойранци и неговите двама жители.

Веднъж вече се бях срещала с едно възрастно семейство, което беше избрало да прекара остатъка от живота си на върха на Чудинската планина, но нещо пак гъделичкаше любопиството ми – исках да се срещна и с тези хора. 

Няколко седмици по-късно вече бяхме на път. Исмет ме беше предупредил, че се намира на около 2ч. път от неговото село, но беше пропуснал един важен детайл – тези 2 часа трябваше да ги извървим пеш. Не се поколебахме да го направим, а слънцето сякаш беше с нас и огряваше пътя ни напред. Толкова много път ни очакваше. 

На всеки половин час Исмет с усмивка ни успокояваше, че наближаваме мястото. Въпреки това балканът продължаваше да изглежда все така далечен.

Изкачването на планината, обаче беше толкова приятно преживяване. Крачех напред не просто с колеги, а с приятели – операторът Александр Осиченко и фотографът и уеб редактор Евгений Милов. Имахме много техника на гръб, въпреки това, те не се оплакваха и с усмивка напредвахме по пътя. Аз правех поредните си опити да снимам с малка динамична камера – Озмо. И двамата полагат много усилия, за да ме научат, а аз всеки път толкова много снимам, снимам, снимам…, въпреки това кадрите почти никгоа не влизат в репортажа. :))) Снимането е голямо предизвикателство, но ми се иска да усвоя умения, защото ако мога да влезна в обувките на операторите и да разбирам езика им – така много по-добре бихме могли да обсъждаме как ще заснемем един материал.

ПЪТЯТ ДО ВЪРХА....

Казват, че за всяка пътека си имало хора. Едни по любов, други за шипки, малини, дренки… Трети, като нас, от любопитство. Стръмната пътека, по която катерихме ни отведе почти до родопския връх Бездивен. Пътят до върха е изпълнен с изключителни гледки.  В подножието се виеше полупресъхнала река Боровица, а в далечината блестеше язовир Кърджали. Почти под всеки хълм се е сгушило по едно малко селце с по 3-4 жители. До тези селца се стига, обаче само по същите кози пътечки, по които се движихме и ние нагоре…

Докато катерехме височините с техниката се разминахме с Рамадан и неговия кон, който беше не по-малко натоварен от нас. Оказва се, че той живее в съседната махала с брат си. Гледат крави. И двата са на около 50 години, но не са женени. Нямат и деца. Казват, че няма кой да ги последва в дивото. Семейството е тяхната несбъдната мечта. 

След около час отново чухме конски тропот. За наша изненада това бепе един от синовете на бабата и дядото, които очаквахме да видим. Тъкмо им беше закарал провизии и се връщаше към съседното село, където живее. Изминавал този път всеки ден по два пъти.

Всъщност пътят до село Дойранци се оказва добре познат маршрут за много мотористи, а жълтите ленти, с които са закичени дърветата по пътя са тяхната маркировка. За нас това беше единственият ориентир до селото.

Стигнахме село Дойранци след 3 часа и 22 минути. Нямаше таблека, обаче имаше входна врата.Щастливите ни усмивки от красивия преход замръзнаха, когато видяхме селото потънало в руини. Единствена на върха ни посреща каменната къща на почти 90-годишните Шукарие и Ахмед. Двамата работеха в градината. Гледат лук, спанак, доматки, зелена салата, картофи. Имат крави, често ходят за билки.

Шукарие не знае български. Учила само две години, после се оженила, дошла да живее на високото. Думите трудно излизаха от устните й, защото от години не е разговаряла с почти никой. Впечатлих се, докато наблюдавам Шукарие да копае твърдата планинска земя, защото на ръцете й светеше голям пръстен, а над гърдите – гердан.

Съпругът й – дядо Ахмед, бил учител. В това макар и недостъпно село, жителите построили училище. В него никога не е имало ток, но имало 30 ученика. Погледът му бепе добър и дълбок, но и той беше толкова изморен, че трудно се говореше.

Разтревожи ме това, че разговорите с тях от една страна може би ще ги изтощят допълнително.

С превода от турски ни помагаше Динджер – по-големият им син, който има 7 професии. Така разбрахме, че съдбата им не е била лека. Малко по-малко селото се обезлюдява. Остават съвсем сами на върха. След това избухва пожар в къщата им. Изпепелява целия им дом. Изгарят всичките им пари. Принудени са да се преместят в съседна каменна къща, в която няма никакви условия за нормален човешки живот. Те нямат топла вода, а студена наливат от каменна чешма, която се намира зад къщата. Беше много мъчително да наблюдаваме как прегърбен дядо Ахмед пълни едно шише ледена вода. Ръцете му трепереха – и от годините, и от студа. Синът им беше монтирал слънчева батерия на покрива – така имаха ток. Имат и телевизор – гледат турските Новини. Беше странно как макар и в България, високо изолирани в планината – сякаш живееха в чужда държава – може би, защото собствената им отдавна беше забравила за тях. 

Прекарахме около 4 часа с тях. Всъщност в селото наистина са само те и тяхната къща,  а наоколо руини. Чудех се, когато настъпи моментът, в който семейството ще отпътува към своя небесен дом – как ще се случи това – как ще бъдат изпратени…? Те никога няма да изоставят каменните зидови, а и би било много трудно да изминат 3 часовия преход, за да прегърнат света… Ще го наблюдават самотно от върха до последния им дъх. 

Най-силен спомен имам от завръщането ни. Спускахме се в тъмнина, осветявахме стръмния път надолу с телефоните си и с осветлението за интервюто. Спомням си момента, в който най-сетне стигнахме полето – стоварихме техниката на земята и седнахме под едно дърво. Едва дишахме, но Луната блестеше толкова красиво, а родопското небе бе обсипано със звезди.”

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