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В Япония със Софийската опера и балет

Дълъг полет през облаците на над 10 страни от 2 континента. Светът отвисоко. Докато се носехме във въздуха си давах сметка, как когато сменяш гледната точка се променят дистанциите – точно като при хората. 16 часа в тялото на металната птица. Знаех, че там, където отиваме ще имаме една предварителна среща с бъдещето. Бях чела много за страната на изгряващото слънце и технологъчния й напредък, но нямах търпение да бъда изненадана.

Това пътуване се случи през октомври 2018-та – в моята “година на пътувания”. Няколко месеца по-рано бях успяла да видя по малко от други 4 страни – Германия, Чехия, Италия и Русия. До две от тях пътувах служебно.

За първи път, обаче щях да снимам извън България с оператора Добромир Иванов. За него бях чувала само, че има особен усет и безграничен талант. Изпитвах голям респект към него и поради тази причина малко се притеснявах дали ще сработи екипът ни на терен, а ни чакаше голямо предизвикателство. Работех като репортер вече втора година, но почти не бяхме снимали заедно. Не се познавахме и разговорът по време на полета не вървеше. Това някак правеше полета още по-протяжен.

Изпитах огромно вълнение, когато пристигнахме. Групата ни беше голяма. Софийската опера и балет се беше подготвила за своето поредно японско турне с трупа от над 100 човека. За мен беше впечатляващо да разбера, че 4 контейнера с 6 тира реквизит и декор прекосяват половината свят, за да се реализира това турне. Толкова много труд, приготовления, средства, дори емоции плават сами някъде… Турнето беше планирано за няколко града, до които артистите пътуваха с влака-стрела. Нашият екип, обаче отрази участията само в Токио. Представленията бяха планирани за престижната зала Бунка Кайкан.

Винаги, когато съм била на оперно представление, балет или театър съм следяла само историята и съм си мислела какво е коствало на артистите да изпълнят програмата. В Япония започнах да виждам много повече важността на екипа зад тях. Впечатлих се от асистент-режисьора на Маестро Карталов – Вера Белева. Фин човек, който с твърдост и благ тон внасяше ред. Нямаше сантиментър от сцената, секунда от изпълнението, които да й обягнат. Дори в Операта има голяма апаратна стая, като тази при нас в телевизията – с много монитори, пулт и всичко останало. Вера “дирижираше” представлението от там. Много се впечатлих и от техническите сътрудници на сцената – това бяха всички онези хора, които сръчно и бързо сглобиха декора. Помагаше им японски екип и беше интересно да се наблюдават две неща: каква е разликата между начина на работа на японския екип и на българския; как без да говорят на един език, двата екипа успяха да построят невероятна, пищна сцена. Може би ще бъде странно, че разказвам за тези хора, а не за прекрасните български артисти, но го правя, защото присъствах на момент, в който един от тях плачеше зад сцената, гледайки играта на нашите оперни звезди. Плачеше от гордост и умиление. Такова вълнение изпитах, когато го видях, че и на мен ми се навлажниха очите. Хората, които работят в Операта са много интелигентни и възпитани. Имат всестранни интереси и таланти. Много земни са и не само заради това, че сме “от телевизията” бяха много внимателни и ни отделяха достатъчно време, за да си свършим работата. Всъщност японското ми преживяване се случи, защото Маестро Карталов беше харесал работата ми, докато отразявах турнето им в Русия, няколко месеца по-рано и беше настоял да замина отново с тях. Огромна чест и предизвикателство. Отговорна задача. Исках да се представя добре.

Оперното изкуство в Япония е много високо ценено. Хората там се подготвят с часове преди да отидат на представление. Избират най-хубавите си кимона, като има различни модели спрямо възрастта; дали е омъжена или не жената; дали отива на дневно или вечерно събитие. Различното е в цветовете, шарките и материите. Научих, че в квартал “Асакуса”, където човек може да се докосне до традициите на японската култура, има работилница, в която туристите могат да облекат кимоно, да обуят типичните бели чорапи, да им бъдат направени грим и прическа и да обиколят квартала с тази визия, за да се поснимат. Сумата не беше голяма – около 30 евро. Струва си човек да види ритуала. Кимоното се състои от 6 части и се облича трудно, дори бих казала, че тежи. Две японки избраха за мен светло розово кимоно, което е подходящо за неомъжена млада жена. Направиха ми и традиционна прическа с типичните аксесоари за коса. След това Добри ми направи прекрасни снимки, докато обикаляхме, за да запиша няколко анонса за репортажа, който подготвяхме. Записахме ги в “Асакуса”, защото визуално исках да си личи, че сме в Япония. 🙂

В “Асакуса” имахме интересна случка. Там не е позволено да се снима без документ, който разрешава това. Ние нямахме такъв, а мястото беше толкова пъстро и толкова “японско”. Успяхме да се споразумеем с полицая за 1 минута. Само една. Точно след като изтече, човекът извади като белия заек един кръгъл часовник и нареди да изключим камерата. Добри, разбира се си отркадна още малко време за снимане, но с фотоапарата. След това заваля и дъжд. Насладих се за няколко минути на този момент преди да си тръгнем от квартала. Японците бяха разтворили пъстрите си чадъри и ми създаваха настроение между капките. 

Посетихме и един от най-звестните квартали на Токио – “Шибуя” – бизнес кварталът. Там се намира най-известното пешеходно кръстовище в света. В една от сградите пък има търговски център, в който направихме репортаж за първия в Япония робот-бариста. Това беше първата ми среща с робот. 🙂 По-късно успяхме да посетим и квартала “Шинджуко”, където се намира може би най-голямата гара в света. Ежедневно преминават милиони туристи от там. В близост е и статуята на кучето “Хачико”. В Шинджуко се намира и най-скъпата търговска улица в Токио. Помня тази разходка добре поради две причини. Първата е, че улицата беше до късно препълнена с лица на хора от различни места по света. Навсякъде всичко светеше и мигаше. Човек започва да се объква малко. Не можеш да останеш безразличен към тази динамика. Да от една страна изглежда отблъскващо, натоварено, създаващо напрежение, но от друга толкова живо, толкова пъстро, толкова динамично. Втората ми причина да помня разходката е хубавият разговор, който я придружаваше. Бяха минали вече няколко дни с колегата ми накрая на света. Дни, в които трябваше всеки да приеме другия – такъв, какъвто е и да си помогнем взаимно да свършим работата по най-добрия начин. В телевизията отношенията между репортер и оператор са много важни. Заедно създаваме историята, но сме различни хора. По-различен начин усещаме света. Затова е важно да се разбираме и да изговаряме всичко преди да стъпим “на терен”. Както в самолета, така и няколко дни по-късно все още не се бяхме усетили като хора с Добри. Някак не ни се получаваше общуването. Имахме различен стил на работа и ми беше много трудно. Докато се разхождахме в “Шинджуко”, обаче за първи път започнахме да говорим  “на един език”.  Поприказвахме си за първите стъпки на всеки един в тази професия, за документално кино и творческите ни мечти. Чудесен разговор, от който се. бях вдъхновила. Мисля, че след това и на терен започна да ни се получава повече. Накрая вечеряхме в едно малко ресторантче.

Японската кухня определено не е моят фаворит. В хотела ми беше доста трудно да закусвам. Единствената храна, която беше поносима за вкуса ми беше оризът, сушито и варените яйца на закуска. И йогурта, разбира се. В Япония има доста по-различен вкус от българския. В хотелския ресторант имаше уред за дезинфекция. Без почистване на ръцете не ни допускаха до масите. И това много преди Коронавируса. Имаше богат избор от японски храни, сред които повечето воднисти и с много японски зеленчуци. Вместо кафе се предлагаше зелен и черен чай. Кафето имаше неприятен вкус и не се предлагаше захар. По-късно си дадох сметка, че японците не са особено добри в сладките неща. Имат интересни десерти, но нито един от тях не ми беше вкусен.

Няколко пъти вечеряхме в ресторантчета в различни квартали на Токио. Опитахме от най-вкусното и известно суши в мегаполиса – малко ресторантче, в което има дълъг въртящ се бар с високи столчета. Предлага се прясно суши. Менютата в заведеняита са само на японски език, много рядко има английски превод. Затова решихме да опитаме възможно най-много различни хапки. Може би беше добра идея, че не знаехме какво опитваме, защото по-късно се оказа, че се предлагат всякакви мекотели, както и най-различни части от тялото на рибата, които не звучаха изобщо вкусно, а вече бяхме опитали. Срещу всяко столче имаше и механизъм като чешмичка, от който да си сипваш чай.

В един от последните дни вечеряхме в японско ресторантче, в което можеш да си приготвиш сам месото на масата. Беше забавно и вкусно. На това място се изпълняваше много интересен ритуал. Всички служители на ресторанта повтаряха някакви думи на висок тон, в един глас – всеки път, когато посрещат и изпращат гостите си. Отне ни известно време, за да разберем какво става и защо всички тези хора викат.

В Токио имахме още една интересна среща. Посетихме школата на Калоян Махлянов – Коотошу. Беше любопитно да разберем как живее и работи днес този голям български спортист. Обогатих общата си култура и съм благодарна, че имах възможността да се докосна за няколко часа до начина му на живот.

Срещнахме се и с млада българка, приета в престижния Токийски университет.

7-те дни минаха бързо. Останах с няколко конкретни впечатления за японците, макар и те да бяха натрупани в бетонен мегаполис като Токио.  Японците са педантични. Пушат само на определени за пушене зони. Пазят града изключително чист. Обичат движенеито. Хранят се бързо, но държат на готвената храна. Ако закъснее и с минута метрото – връщат парите за билетчето. Уважават добрия тон. Гостоприемни са.

Ех, ами мечтая си отново да посетя тази страна!

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