Хоризонти

10 дни с 1 куфар, малко пари и влак през Пулия

Бари - Полиняно а Маре - Матера - Остуни - Алберобело

Южна Италия ще те накара да се влюбиш. Всъщност ще се влюбваш всеки ден, ден след ден. Малки градчета и селца, в които можеш да преживееш истински Италия – с всичките й аромати, вкусове и цветове.

Пулия беше първото ми пътешествие с влак. Реших да го споделя с моята сестра. Тя е също толкова любопитна и приключенски настроена като мен.

Планирахме всичко до последния детайл, защото исках да запечатам тези места в съзнанието си, не просто като картини, а като преживявания.

Най-лесният начин човек да стигне до Южна Италия е чрез самолет до Бари. Бари е пристанищен град, добре познат на българите. Това е административната столица на Пулия. От няколко години насам нискотарифните самолетни компании предлагат тази линия. За по-малко от 100лв, човек може да купи двупосочен билет. Летището там носи името на Папа Йоан Павел II – Карол Войтила.

Бари беше нашият град – “щаб”. Резервирахме 6 нощувки в малък хотел, в близост до историческия център, на 10 минути пеш от Централната ЖП гара.

От Бари имахме възможност лесно да достигнем всяка една точка от Пулия с влак. Билетите до почти всяко едно градче, което посетихме са по 5 евро в посока.

Отворихме картата и набелязахме няколко места, които задължително ще посетим. Маршрутът ни включваше Бари – Полиняно а Маре – Алборобело – Матера – Остуни.

Бари

Това е вторият по-важност икономически център в Южна Италия, след Неапол. Пристанището е едно от най-големите. Свързва две морета и е много важно за региона, който се счита за най-големият производител на селскостопански стоки като зехтин и вино. Това може да се види и от прозореца на влака, който прекосява полските насаждения.

В Бари има дълга и красива крайбрежна ивица, където човек може да покара колело. Има и няколко плажа – два, от които с широка плажна линии. Пясъкът не е толкова ситен и мек като в България, но за разлика от Северна Италия, поне го има. Бари е сравнително чист и подреден град. Най-известната забележителност е църквата “Св. Николай”, разположена в историческия център.

Най-хубавият ми спомен от Бари е от една малка италианска гостилничка в близост до хотела, в който бяхме отседнали. Открихме я случайно, докато се лутахме под силните лъчи на слънцето, за да намерим място за икономичен обяд. Всъщност обядът ни излезе доста скъп. Храната се приготвяше на момента от собственика на ресторантчето. Когато седнахме освен меню той донесе на масата ни голяма бутилка вода и пресни брускети. По-късно разбрахме, че това се прави във всички ресторантчета в Пулия и не е комплимент от заведението, а е включено в сметката накрая. Защо това е най-хубавият ми спомен – освен, че се насладихме на изключително вкусна италиянска храна, видяхме колко добри търговци са италинците. Истинско майсторство в презентирането на продукти и услуги. Докато се усетиш са измъкнали и последното ти евро. Докато обядвахме собственикът на заведението идваше няколко пъти на масата ни, за да провери лично дали храната е достатъчно добра, дали сме доволни. Това, обаче не беше единствената причина. Всеки път той идваше с ново апетитно предложение. Чипс – приготвен от картофи отгледани в селци в близост и подправени с морски криснални соли от Адриатичеко море или пък прясно изпечени фокачени хлебчета с маслинова паста и зехтин, произведени в малко ранчо от региона. Изкусителните предложения, бяха предвиждани от кратки разкази, свързани с историята на продуктите и региона, но и с малки вече приготвени хапки. Как да откажеш “просто да пробваш” – Пулия е известна с “тайните” рецепти и майсторите готвачи. Нооо накрая в сметката ни за вкусната паста бяха начислени абсолютно всички вкусни предложения в мини хапки. Как да се сърдиш – научихме толкова много за италианската кухня, италианският темперамент и беше толкова вкусно.

Полиняно а Маре

Малко и кокетно градче На около 15 минутки с влак и билет за 5 евро. Къщите са разположени по скалисти склонове, точно над морските вълни и са обагрени в топли и меки тонове – “капучино”, “сметна”, “пъпеш”. По вратите им и по белите стълбички, които се виждат накъдето и да се обърнеш има изписани романтични послания. Почти всяка от артистичните тесни и стръмни улички има скална тераса с панорамна гледка към морето. Малки дюкянчета предлагат ръчно изработени сувенири и домашно приготвена храна, отново изцяло и само с продукти от Южна Италия. Има и пещерен ресторант, почти във водата. Това градче трябва да се види, да се помирише, да се докосне. Наричано е още диамантът на Пулия. 

Освен романтиката, която предлага, Полиняно а Маре е известно по света и с още 3 неща – гмуркането от скали, специалната сладоледена рецепта и музикалият хит “Volare”.  Докато се разхождате, може да чуете как улични музиканти свирят песента, а италианците, а и не само те си тананикат припева. Песента “Volare, centare…”/ “Летя, пея” е на известния певец и композитор Доменико Модуньо – роден в Поляно а Маре. 

Скалите, върху които е изградено градчето предлагат най-различни възможности за забавления – обиколка с каяк, разходка с лодка около множеството пещери или пък гмуркане. Голям и красив мост, от който се разкрива най-известния залив на градчето често е използван за сватбени фоторазходки. Всъщност, ако човек е авантюристичен и докато е на посещение в Полиняно а Маре – ще намери всичко небоходимо за своята италианска, морска и артистична сватба. В малките шивашки ателиенца ще ви ушият красива дантелена рокля и папионка или вратовръзка. Ще изработят букет от платнени цветя. Ще се сдобиете с ръчно изработени дървени, матални или пък мидени пръстени, а накрая ще бъдете повалени и от вкусното меню и десерт – сладоледена торта по специална рецепта.

Матера

Посетихме Матера в годината, когато беше избрана за европейска столица на културата. Първото ми силно впечатление беше новоизградената, специално по този повод, жп линия от Бари до Матера. Градът има стара и нова част, подобно на Пловдив.

Навлизайки в старата част, пред човек сякаш се разкрива друг свят. Матера включва комплекс от къщи, църкви, манастири и скитове, построени в естествените пещери на Мурджия. Все още могат да се видят над хиляда запазени жилища и голям брой работилнички и магазинчета. История на повече от 9000 години. Мястото е обитавано за първи път от палеолита до неолита.

Към края на XIX в. пещерните жилища в Матера се отличават с непоносима бедност, лоши санитарни условия, оскъдни условия на труд и ширещи се болести. През 1952 г. населението е евакуирано и преместено в модерни жилища, а Саси (на италиански “камъни”) остават изоставени до 80-те години на ХХ век

Известни като la città sotterranea (“подземният град”), Саси е обявен за обект на световното наследство на ЮНЕСКО през 1993 г. 

Имахме удоволствието да видим няколко огромни скулптури, съпътстващи специална изложба, посветена на Салвадор Дали – “Устойчивост на противоположностите”. Те бяха разположени на различни места, на открито и е истинско удоволствие да ги откриваш, докато се разхождаш наоколо –  “Космически носорог”, “Космически слон”, “Танц на времето II”, “Охлюв и ангел” и “Сюрреалистично пиано”.

Остуни

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